The next week was Semana Santa, or Easter Week. Mario invited me to go with them to Nicaragua since I was headed south anyway. Myself, Mario, and Juan Carlos (JC) were on bikes, and the girls were driving the truck, which was nice so we didn’t have to carry anything on the bikes except for the standard tool kit, and extra tubes. We left San Salvador early in the morning so I had time to do battle with the infamous Honduras border crossings. This small section of Honduras on the Pan American highway between El Salvador and Nicaragua is infamous for corruption and has been the source of some legendary stories among long riders. Once you navigate the border and hit the road, you are immediately accosted by corrupt cops every 10 miles until you get to the Nicaragua border. So an early start was essential for this day.
You always see some interesting things on the road. This truck was probably carrying multi-colored alien dinosaur eggs or some such nonsense.
Interactive Google Map (you can zoom and pan) – Honduras Route.
View Honduras in a larger map
We got to the Honduras border at El Amatillo and I started the process of importing myself and bike into Honduras. As I mentioned, the Honduras borders are infamous. The customs people tend make up problems why they cannot import your vehicle and then will tell you that for 400 or 500 dollars the “problem” will go away. Well needless to say, I had no intention of paying anything other the standard $35 import fee. I don’t like to get fleeced, so out of principle and stubbornness, I will wait around all day if necessary to do battle with the customs people until they stop messing with me.
Mario, JC and Fernanda did not have to deal with Honduras customs because of the CA-4 agreement. They are free to travel from Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua without dealing with immigration or customs vehicle procedures. I was hoping that I would not hold them up too long while going through the process.
So here I am with all of my paperwork getting ready to go do battle with the “Deputy Assistant to the Minister of Corrupt Border Officials,” AKA, the customs lady.
Fernanda, Julie, and Fernandita were patiently waiting for me in the shade while I went through the process.
We changed a few bucks at the border with the money changers………..
Despite all my preparations and mindset to go in ready for battle, I had absolutely no problem checking myself and my bike into Honduras. Everything went very smoothly and a process that has taken others hundreds of dollars and a full day, took me the standard 35 bucks and all of an hour and half. I think that because of the recent change of government in Honduras, the low level bureaucrats like these customs people could be scared for their jobs, and as a result they are on their best behavior. That’s just a guess, but whatever the reason, the infamous El Amatillo crossing was a breeze.
We headed on down the road without any problems. There were numerous cop stops along the way, but I just hung back behind Mario and JC and let them do all the talking. I just kept quiet so the cops thought I was Salvadoreño, and they didn’t give me any grief at all. In total we encountered six corrupt cop checkpoints on the way, but with the Guanaco boys running point and doing all the talking, we were waved right through after only a few seconds of discussion at each stop.
I really wanted to test my finely honed skills against these infamous corrupt cops as its has become kind of a hobby of mine. I was trained by the best Mexico has to offer. Since the Honduran cops have a reputation for corruption, I was really looking forward to playing the game with those guys. I’ll get the chance to do it on the way back north.
After the brief 80 mile section on CA-1 through Honduras, I checked out of the country easily enough at this place, very tranquilo, no problems. The customs guy just looked disgusted and stamped my paperwork with scowl and a grunt. Adios Honduras.
Checking into Nicaragua we changed some money once again.
And only 3 hours after leaving El Salvador I am through Honduras and into Nicaragua. I was shocked at how smoothly it went. People routinely spend all day long just getting through this infamous 80 mile gauntlet of corruption, but we were done before lunch. Being with Mario and JC really helped with the cops, so I’m sure that saved a lot of time. I was prepared for the worst and the whole thing was a non-event. I didn’t even get any good story material out of the experience.
Welcome to Nicaragua.
Saludos, Vicente